June 7, 2010 | Chicago
We’ve mastered scented pillows, edible menus, and apple pie soup. Yet perfecting the bagel has continued to elude us.
Or so we thought. Turns out it’s been right under our nose, at e.leaven, a year-old downtown joint. We could impress you with scientific details (owner Eben Dorros installed a special filtration system to recreate tristate-area water—it’s purer) or wax poetic about water’s effects on bagel texture (crusty outside, chewy inside).
Instead, we’ll keep it simple: This is, hands down, the best bagel in the city. Sizable but not silly huge, hearty but not heavy, doughy but not undercooked. Delicious when toasted. Delectable when slathered with scallion cream cheese.
Whether you prefer cheesy Asiago (a best seller), a healthful oat bran, or spicy jalapeño, every bit will be a revelation. e.leaven doesn’t deliver, so make the trek ASAP. Hey—it’s faster than flying to New York.
e.leaven Food Company, 54 East Ontario Street, between Rush and Wabash Streets (312-202-0899 or eleavenfood.com).